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CYPHOMANDRA BETACEA SENT. - Tamarillo |
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CULTURE |
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Location: The tamarillo is small
enough and attractive enough to fit into many parts of the home
landscape as long as the site is well-drained. They grow best
in full sun except in hot, dry situations, where partial shade
is better. They need protection from strong winds.
Soil: Tamarillos require a fertile, light soil that is rich in
organic matter. Perfect drainage is also necessary. Water standing
for even a few days may kill the plant. Because of the shallow
root system, deep cultivation is not possible, but light cultivation
to eliminate weeds is acceptable.
Irrigation: The plant cannot tolerate
prolonged drought and must have ample water during dry periods.
A mulch is very beneficial in conserving moisture at such times.
Fertilization: Recommended fertilizer
applications is 0.5 to 2 lbs. per tree of 5:6:6 NPK. Half of this
should be applied in early spring and the other half in midsummer.
A late winter application of superposphate every other year at
the rate of 0.5 lb. per tree is also beneficial.
Pruning: Newly planted tamarillos
should be pruned to a height of 3 to 4 ft. to encourage branching.
Yearly pruning thereafter is advisable to eliminate branches that
have already fruited and to induce ample new shoots close to the
main branches, since fruit is produced on new growth. Pruning
also aids in harvesting, and if timed properly can extend the
total fruiting period.
Propagation: The trees need regular
pruning to control their shape. The branches formed the previous
season should be pruned to half their length. The branchlets on
the remaining part of the branches should also be trimmed about
50%. A summer pruning of the male plant is also necessary when
planted in a single site with the female. To grow as a tree, in
addition to pruning the lateral branches, the leading branch may
also need to be staked to point it in a vertical direction. Trees
grafted onto Osage orange (Maclura pomifera) rootstock tend to
be more robust and grow in a more upright fashion.
Frost Protection: Although tamarillos
can tolerate a few degrees of frost, they do best (and look their
best) under frost-free conditions. In areas where frost may be
a problem, providing them with some overhead protection or planting
them next to a wall or a building may be sufficient. The smallish
plants are also fairly easy to cover during cold snaps by placing
carpeting, plastic sheeting, etc. over a frame around them. Potted
specimens can be moved to a frost-secure area.
Pests and diseases: The tamarillo
is generally regarded as pest-resistant, although they are occasionally
attacked by green aphids, and fruit flies will attack the fruit
in areas where that is a problem. Nematodes are also a potential
problem. The principal disease is powdery mildew, which may cause
serious defoliation if not controlled. The plant is noted for
its resistance to tobacco mosaic virus, though it is susceptible
to cucumber mosaic virus and potato virus. Die-back, of unknown
origin, at times is lethal to the flowers, fruit cluster, twigs
and new shoots. Potted plants grown inside should be watched for
the common house plant pests, such as mealybugs, cottony scale
and white flies.
Harvest: Tamarillos are ready to
harvest when they develop the yellow or red color characteristic
of the particular variety. To harvest, simply pull the fruit from
the tree with a snapping motion, leaving the stem attached. The
fruit can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 10 weeks, but
temperatures below 38 degrees F can cause the skin to discolor.
Ripe tamarillos may be merely cut in half lengthwise, sprinkled
with sugar (and chilled if you like) and served for eating by
scooping out the flesh and pulp. The fruit should not be cut on
a wooden or other permeable surface, as the juice will make an
indelible stain. For other purposes, the skin must be removed,
which is easily done by pouring boiling water over the fruit and
letting it stand for 4 minutes before peeling.
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CULTIVARS |
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Ecuadorian Orange
Fruit is medium orange in color, the size of a large hen's egg.
Pulp light orange, creamy in texture, less acid than the Ruby Red.
Excellent for eating out of hand and also suited for culinary purposes.
Goldmine
A superior cultivar originating in New Zealand and recently introduced.
Very large golden-yellow fruit with golden, highly flavored flesh,
less bland than Solid Gold, but not acidic. Has superb earing qualities.
Inca Gold
A yellow-fruited cultivar said to be less acid than the red types.
When cooked the fruit is said to resemble the apricot in flavor.
Oratia Red
A large fruited red cultivar, oval to rounded in shape, with a sharp
acid flavor. Good quality for eating out of hand and excellent for
jams and preserves.
Rothamer
Unusual large fruit, over 3 ounces. Skin bright red. Flesh golden-yellow,
flavor sweet and exotic. Seeds dark red. Ripen from December to
April. Delicious eaten out of hand. Vigorous and heavy bearing plant.
Originated in San Rafael, Calif.
Ruby Red
Large, brilliant red fruit. Pulp dark red, tart and flavorful. Fair
for eating out of hand, but very good for culinary use. If allowed
to ripen for one to three weeks after picking, they will become
less acid. The standard cultivar grown for export in New Zealand.
Solid Gold
Large, oval shaped fruit. Skin golden-orange in color. Pulp soft,
less acidic in flavor than Oratia Red. Very good for eating out
of hand, with acceptable culinary qualities.
Yellow
Fruits the size and shape of a large plum. Skin yellowish orange.
Flesh yellow, with a milder flavor than the red types. The yellow
form is the oldest in cultivation in New Zealand.
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